Peru is the starting point of the Amazon, at Carhuasanta, before it slides down the Andes and into the Amazon basin on the other side. Peru is therefore the only South American country where you can experience its many facets. The Amazon rainforest in Peru is perhaps the richest and most varied section of all. Manu National Park stands out as one of the most biodiverse places on the planet, hosting at least 1,000 species of birds and more than 200 species of mammals. Here you can spot alligators and canoe along gentle rivers, surrounded by the all-encompassing ‘green symphony’. You can explore the river by boat or deepen your knowledge of the rainforest and its people by taking part in a volunteer project.
You don’t need to be persuaded to visit the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu. A hike along an ancient trail between majestic mountains to a secret city – the Inca Trail is legendary in the travel world. However, you’re likely to be confused by the various ways to get there. You can opt to walk the Inca Trail. This four-day trek is one of the grandest on the planet, using Inca stone steps to traverse deserted villages and terraced fields on steep Andean slopes. Be aware that visitor numbers are limited. If you’re late to book a spot, consider the more popular alternative, the Choquequirao Trail. Or, take the Lares Trek, known as the ‘people’s trail’. For something different, try the Salkantay Trek. Although it’s higher and longer and lacks the Inca ruins of the ‘Classic’ trail, it offers stunning scenery, passes through 15 ecosystems and isn’t as crowded. You can also do it on horseback. Hike to the top of the alternative Inca Trail for a view of Machu Picchu that’s not visible to the crowds.
From roasted guinea pig to the world’s smelliest potatoes, Peruvian cuisine is not for the faint of heart, but the brave are rewarded! Cuy is one of Peru’s most iconic culinary experiences. It’s most easily found in high-altitude towns like Cusco and the Urubamba Valley. Head out of the main square and into the back streets for a more authentic experience. Of course, it’s not for everyone. If you like meat but guinea pig isn’t to your taste, head to Arequipa. Situated beneath the El Misti volcano, the mountain’s ashlar stone is omnipresent in the old town. Potatoes have been cultivated in the Andes for 10,000 years and today there are 3,800 different types available. In recent years, Peru has become a culinary destination. From the coast to the capital, from the highlands to the jungle, young chefs are creating some of the most exciting and tasty dishes on the planet.
While most travelers are irresistibly drawn to the tourist hubs of Cusco and Arequipa, the charms of the capital, Lima, often go unnoticed. With the coast, mountains and jungle just hours from the capital, Lima offers respite and exciting alternatives to the crowds and bus transportation that await you on the Gringo Trail. Lunahuana offers rafting and vineyards. The adobe buildings of Tarma evoke pre-Columbian times, with the jungle and deepest cave in South America nearby. If you stay in the capital, don’t despair as there are plenty of activities to do, many of them free. Consider a walking tour of the UNESCO-listed colonial city with the Inkan Milky Way – it’s free, though a donation is appreciated.
Southern Peru is a land of frozen mummies, mist-shrouded volcanoes and the source of the Amazon. You’ll also find one of the deepest canyons in the world, the Colca, where majestic condors rule the roost. Head to the Cruz del Cóndor viewpoint. This is the best place to watch these impressive birds soaring on the morning thermals. Watch as they glide, spin, dip and ascend, soaring overhead before slowly gliding down the canyon and disappearing from view.
The snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash offer some of the most challenging and remote mountaineering experiences in the world. The hike to a base camp is enough for most, but the views, even from there, are unforgettable. Alternatively, do the classic Cordillera Blanca trek: Llanganuco to Santa Cruz. The trail follows a descending river, ascending through diverse landscapes. The uninterrupted view of the craggy white pyramid of Taulliraju is your ultimate reward. Unless you decide to enjoy Chilean wine from the balcony of a hotel in Huaraz, watching the changing light on the Huascarán and Huandoy mountains. Finally, marvel at the red, brown, pink, white and green swirls of Vinicunca, also known as the Mountain of Seven Colors or Rainbow Mountain. It is located southeast of Cusco in the Vilcanota mountain range and is usually done as a day trip from the city.
With Machu Picchu and the Inca Trail just over the hills, most travelers are inclined to leave Cusco as soon as possible. However, for the patient visitor willing to extend their stay a day or two, this stunning colonial city reveals even more of its charms. A Boleto Turístico del Cusco pass grants access to 15 key historic sites. Then, head to Sacsayhuamán, overlooking the city, and walk back to Cusco through the San Blas neighborhood, the artisans’ quarter, with its galleries and boutiques. Next, explore the Sacred Valley, the Urubamba River valley, where you can visit historic Inca sites at Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Chinchero. If it’s a Tuesday, Thursday, or Sunday, check out the market at Chinchero (which isn’t as touristy as the famous Pisac market), and the adjacent textile cooperative for a bit of shopping. The pre-Inca salt flats at Maras are also worth a visit.
The Incas were the first to call the Chachapoyas the ‘people of the clouds’ and their mountaintop retreat, shrouded in mist and covered in jungle, looks like something out of an Indiana Jones movie. The Chachapoyas have left behind an impressive collection of sophisticated hilltop fortifications and remains of roundhouses, but it is the way they carefully preserved their dead that has captivated archaeologists and travellers alike. Several mummy caches have been found in extraordinarily inaccessible places, high on cliffs and in underground vaults. Just be sure to bring your wellies and a machete.
The Nazca Lines are huge, intricate drawings etched into the arid landscape of Peru’s coastal desert, approximately 400km south of Lima. Enigmatic and mysterious, the figures of people and animals etched into the desert dust have long puzzled experts. The lines are thought to have been created by the Nazca people. They predate the Incas by up to 2,000 years, but Nazca’s extreme environment has minimised erosion and helped keep the lines intact. American astronomer Carl Sagan thought they were written by space beings – take an aerial tour of the site and form your own opinion.
Rafting in Peru is thrilling and spectacular. Rivers that begin as streams high in the Andes, build in power and size as they make their way into the Amazon, carving jagged mountains and stunning canyons. One of the most thrilling rafting trips available takes you down the Apurimac River, as it carves its way through a deep canyon, just a short distance from Cusco. Starting at an altitude of 3,400m, rafting begins at a relaxed pace as you cruise along the calmer stretches of the river. After enjoying lunch on a sandy riverside beach, the action intensifies with intense class III and IV rapids along a wilder stretch, as you make your way down the canyon and back to civilization.